Ladakh is the most beautiful place I’ve ever seen. Located in the far northern corner of the Indian Himalayas, the rugged and remote region is surrounded by snow-capped peaks of the Zanskar, Ladakh and Karakoram ranges. While hilltops are dotted with crumbling ancient monasteries and valley floors are decorated by irrigated green crops and tiny villages.
It’s a region that promises a great adventure, sitting at a lofty 3,500m+. From high altitude lakes, to trekking between remote villages, there’s so many memorable and otherworldly experiences and places to explore in this corner of the world.
I’ve now visited Ladakh twice; spending nearly six weeks each time based in Leh. Based on my own experience, I’ve decided to put together this comprehensive travel guide to Ladakh, with absolutely everything you need to know about travelling to Leh and beyond.
Overview of Ladakh
Ladakh covers the far northern extent of the Indian subcontinent and is bordered by Pakistan to the west and China and Tibet to the north and east. Technically, the broader Ladakh region is also partly in Pakistan, which is known as Gilgit-Baltistan. Together, Ladakh and Gilgit-Baltistan are culturally, ethnically and historically very similar.
Ladakh was part of the former Tibetan Kingdom and is still home to a predominantly Buddhist population today. This means that the culture, language, food, atmosphere and architecture of the region are completely different to what you might find elsewhere in India.
Ladakh was also considered part of Jammu and Kashmir state in India, but since 2019, Ladakh is now a Union Territory.
Leh is the capital and transport hub of the Ladakh region. This is where you’ll want to base yourself when exploring Ladakh. While some people confuse Leh and Ladakh as being the same thing, Leh is the town while Ladakh is the name of the broader region.
When is the Best Time to Travel to Ladakh
High season runs from June to August in Ladakh. This is when the region sees its best weather with warm days and relatively mild nights. The roads are also almost guaranteed to be clear of snow during these summer months, making places easier to access.
If you want to join any tours or treks from Leh, then this is the perfect season to meet other travellers and join groups. Outside of these months it can be hard to find regular departures for tours.
The roads connecting Leh with Manali and Srinagar are usually open from April or May until September or October, depending on conditions. The Leh-Manali Road tends to open later and close earlier due to its higher elevation.
If you’re interested in trekking in the region, try to visit from August up to mid-September. This is when the weather is warm and the trails are cleared of excess snow and ice. High passes and peaks are usually much safer to cross during these months.
How to Get to Leh, Ladakh
Now, this is where the adventure really begins. You can reach Leh, Ladakh by road or by air. Flying is the only option available all year round, while travel by road is possible usually from May until October. There are shared and public transport options by road from either Kashmir or Himachal Pradesh.
By Air
If you’re short on time or aren’t up for many days spent doing long drives on some pretty rough roads, then flying is the better option. There are frequent flights throughout the year from Delhi to Leh. In winter, this is the only way into the region.
Flights are run by Air India, Vistara, SpiceJet, and IndiGo. Flights are around 1.5 hours and cost anywhere from 3000INR (AU$60) to 9000INR (AU$180) one way.
By Road
Undoubtedly, the road trip to get to Leh is one of the best in the world. It’s not for the faint-hearted though as the roads are rough, with steep drops down one side. However, improvements are made each year with large parts of the drive now sealed.
To reach Leh by road, you can come from two directions: Srinagar in Kashmir to the west or Manali in Himachal Pradesh to the south-east. There are public buses, government tourism buses and shared taxis plying these routes during the summer months.
For most travellers, coming from Manali is most convenient and the more popular option, although the road is far more arduous. The Srinagar-Leh road is less travelled but is a great option if you plan to explore Kashmir or think you might have problems with sudden changes in altitude.
The highest point on the Srinagar-Leh route is Fotu La at 4,100m, having a more gradual altitude change up to Leh at 3,500m. Whereas the Manali-Leh road runs at an average height of 4,000m, including three passes over 5,000m, the highest being Tanglang La at 5,320m.
Is it Safe to Visit Ladakh?
The politics of the region can be confusing and can flare up at any time. However, Leh town has remained peaceful for many years now. The border regions close to Pakistan and close to Tibet occasionally have tensions flare up, so keep your eye on local news if you plan on heading up to Ladakh, but in general this occurs far from Leh.
However, I would say Ladakh feels very safe when travelling there. There’s a huge military presence everywhere you look, so border clashes rarely spillover anywhere close to Leh.
Ladakh also has one of the lowest crime rates in India. The people are extremely lovely and welcoming; it’s definitely one of the most relaxing places to experience in India.
Where to Stay in Leh
There are so many accommodation options in Leh, from backpacker hostels to 5 star high end hotels. The best option in my opinion is one of the many local guesthouses. These are usually family owned and a great way to get to know the Ladakhi culture. I’ve stayed at many different places in Leh, so I can recommend a few at different price points.
Budget: Raybo Hostel
Budget: Peace Guest House
Midrange: Chandan Guest House
Midrange: Rock Castle Residency
High-end: Grand Dragon
Where to Eat in Leh
The food is one of the highlights of Leh for me. The town is packed full of great cafes and restaurants, serving local Tibetan and Ladakhi food , as well as a range of cuisines from Thai to Italian. Some of my favourites include:
- Bodhi Terrace
- Tibetan Kitchen
- Chopsticks
- Wanderers Terrace
- Asian Corner
How to Get Around Ladakh
Once you find yourself in Leh town, getting around Ladakh is relatively easy with a variety of options. Whether you hire your own transport or opt to go with public transport, travelling by road in Ladakh is one of the best experiences in the region.
I opted for a combination of public transport and organised group tours to get around to most places. I found this the perfect balance as a budget traveller. Although taxis come in handy too, especially to more obscure places.
Here are your options:
Public Transport
Once in Leh, public transport is a little limited. You’ll need a lot of time and patience if you plan on using local buses to get to all the best places.
Heading east of Leh, if you want to explore Shey Palace, Thiksey Monastery, and Stakna Monastery, you can start by taking one of the local buses leaving from Leh main gate to Choglamsar. From there, you can take another local bus which runs along the main road past Shey and Thiksey. Tickets cost as less than 50 INR and these buses run regularly throughout the day when full. Getting back to Leh can be difficult, as you’ll have to wait on the highway and flag down a passing bus. Hitchhiking is an option.
It is also possible to get to other popular destination further afield by bus. There are usually weekly buses to Diskit in Nubra Valley, Pangong Lake, and Tso Moriri. But you’ll have to check at the main bus station in Leh for the latest timetable.
For other places out west, there are daily buses to Lamayuru. Usually a few buses per week to Likir (for the Sham Valley trek) and Chilling (for the Markha Valley Trek). But again, check at the station for the latest timetable. Photos above are the current schedule as of 2023.
Shared Taxis and Group Tours
By far the most convenient way of getting to the main attractions is by joining a group tour. While I don’t usually do this while travelling, in Ladakh it makes a lot of sense for budget travellers.
Agencies in Leh organise group tours to Pangong Lake, Nubra Valley and Turtuk. These are generally four days, three nights, or three days, two nights if you omit Turtuk.
Prices start from 24,000 INR (AU$450) for a whole vehicle and driver for three days to Pangong Lake and Nubra Valley. More if you add Turtuk. You can then divide this amongst 6-7 people to share the cost.
Accommodation is then up to you to organise and pay for yourself. You can either wait until you arrive and find something that the driver’s recommend, or you’ll find many options for Pangong Lake and Diskit or Hunder (Nubra Valley) online.
Prices will be much the same across all agencies as the drivers work as part of a union with set pricing structures. You can simply walk around Leh and just find an agency that has a group leaving on the your preferred date. They often have signs on their doors displaying the next departures.
Private Taxis
For closer day trips around Leh, getting a taxi can be a convenient and relatively inexpensive way to go. As mentioned above, the taxis are part of a union, so they all carry a booklet and price list inside their cab. You can simply ask to check the price, with no room for bargaining.
Popular day trips include combining Shey, Thiksey and Hemis together, which can cost around 3700 INR (AU$70) for the day.
Otherwise, taxis are also convenient if you want to get dropped at the trailhead of a trek for example, like to Likir (2000 INR or AU$40) or Chilling (3600 INR or AU$70).
Hiring a Motorbike
Hiring a motorbike is a popular choice for Indians who love to explore the Ladakh roads on two wheels. There’s plenty of places in Leh to hire a Royal Enfield, with prices starting relatively low per day.
However, the roads are not for inexperienced riders and I would suggest making sure that you’re competent and have a motorbike license before thinking about hiring a bike in Ladakh.
I noticed a lot more scooter rentals around Leh on my last visit. This would be a good alternative to get around if you’re not confident on a motorbike.
How Long to Spend in Ladakh
You’re asking the wrong person! I’ve spent 12 weeks in total over two trips to the Ladakh region, so I will likely encourage you to spend as long as possible. But if I’m being practical, I would say 10 days minimum if you want to do some sightseeing outside of Leh. Two weeks if you want to also add on a short trek like Sham Valley or Markha Valley.
You can spend much longer than that as well, if you want to add on lesser visited places like Zanskar Valley or Tso Moriri.
Sightseeing Permits for Indians and Foreigners
While you generally only need your passport to travel to Leh, you will also need a permit to reach some places considered sensitive. Both Indians and Foreign Nationals require permits to visit some places. For Indians, this is called an Inner Line Permit and for foreigners, it’s called a Protected Area Permit.
The following places require this permit:
- Pangong Lake
- Nubra Valley
- Turtuk
- Tso Moriri Lake
- Dha-Hanu Valley
You can either do all the work yourself at the Permit Office (Deputy Commissioner Office) in Leh or if you book a tour with an agency like to Pangong Lake etc., they will do the permits for you. It takes just a few hours to get a permit usually, although it depends how busy the office is.
The cost of the permit is 400 INR environment fee, 100 INR Red Cross donation, and 20 INR per day for wildlife protection fee. So, for a three day trip to Pangong Lake and Nubra Valley, expect the permit to cost 560 INR (AU$11).
For other places like Thiskey, Hemis, and Lamayuru, you just need to cary your passport on you for ID. A permit is not required for these places.
Best Things to Do and See in Ladakh
There are plenty of things to do and see in Ladakh such as remote valleys, rural villages, hilltop monasteries and high altitude lakes. Here are the essential places to visit during your time in Ladakh:
Leh Market
The main hub and tourist centre of Leh is the market. The main thoroughfare is Leh Bazaar Road, which is a wide pedestrian market and shopping street. Filled with souvenir shops, book shops, general stores, trekking gear stores, tour agencies, cafes and banks, you can get whatever you need around the market area.
At the northern end of the Main Bazaar Road is Jama Masjid (main mosque), and you’ll also find the main Leh Buddhist Temple on the western arm of the bazaar road. Decorated with prayer flags and with the towering Leh Palace above the old town, it’s undoubtedly the most vibrant place to be in Leh.
Shanti Stupa
Offering one of the best views in all of Leh town, Shanti Stupa is the white peace pagoda you can see north-west of the bazaar on a small hilltop. It was built in 1991 with funds from the Japanese, similar to the one in Pokhara, Nepal.
The platform around the stupa offers a panoramic view of the town and surrounding valley. It’s undoubtedly one of the best things to do in Leh at sunset time, when the last light of the setting sun streams through the valley creating some beautiful shadows on the ridgelines of the mountains.
You can take a taxi up to the stupa and temple complex or walk up the 500 stairs from the end of Changsha Road. A taxi from Leh market up to the stupa and back, including waiting time costs about 400 INR (AU$8) per car.
Entry fee is 50INR (AU$1).
Leh Palace
The most imposing landmark of Leh town, the old palace has undergone plenty of renovations over the last few years and has been opened to the public as a museum and incredible vantage point.
It was originally built in the 17th century by the royal family, Namgyal, as they ruled over the Himalayan Kingdom of Ladakh, in Western Tibet. It was then abandoned in the mid-19th century when the Dogra forces invaded Ladakh and the royal family was forced to flee to Stok.
Today, you can explore the nine levels of the palace, although it’s mostly empty with not much remaining from its time as a palace. There has been a lot of effort to turn some rooms into a museum, which makes it a really interesting place to visit. Plus, the view from the ninth floor is outstanding, looking right across the town below.
You can drive up to the palace, but it’s much quicker to walk up from the bazaar and old town area with stairs leading up from the bottom.
Entry fee is 100 INR (AU$2)
Tsemo Maitreya Temple
The beautiful monastery that sits perched above Leh Palace is my favourite place to be at sunset time. This incredible ruined fort complex and Buddhist temple is one of the highest points in town to enjoy the view of the valley as the sun sets.
You can drive up to the temple, or hike up to it from two different directions. The walk up from Chubi is done on a paved trail with stairs. It starts beside the Chubi HP Petrol Station on Sankar Road. But, most people hike up from Leh Palace, with a dirt trail cut into the mountain. It’s a bit of a workout if you’re not yet acclimatised to the altitude.
Entry fee is 30 INR (AU$0.60)
Khardung La Road Pass
Ladakh is known as the Land of High Passes for a reason. There are several high passes you can drive or hike over in the region, but none are as famous as Khardung La. Once the highest motorable road in the world (now overtaken by another road in India), Khardung La sits at 5,360m.
It connects Leh with Nubra Valley and is the most used pass for tourists heading over to Hunder, Diskit and Pangong Lake. However, some also just drive up to the pass as a day trip and drive back to Leh, but the real adventure is continuing onto Nubra Valley.
The road is generally in decent condition and mostly sealed, but it can close suddenly due to landslides or snow fall, so check ahead of time. It’s generally only open from June until September for tourists.
How Much Does a Ladakh Trip Cost?
If you’re on a budget, then here’s what you can expect to pay for things in Ladakh (if you want to spend more, you definitely can):
- Accommodation: 450INR (AU$9) for dorm bed or 800INR (AU$16) for private room at a guesthouse
- Meals: 150INR (AU$3) at a local restaurant or 350INR (AU$6) at a more tourist-oriented place
- Entrance fees: Most monasteries charge around 50INR (AU$1) for entry
- SIM card: They charge around 500INR (AU$10) for registration, setup and a 28 day package at AIRTEL in Leh
- Three day tour to Pangong Lake and Nubra Valley: 4,000INR (AU$80) for a seat in a shared group tour
- Permit: 560INR (AU$11) for three days to Pangong lake and Nubra Valley
